YCS heat 2 - Glasgow

Today was the second heat in the Youth Climbing Series. It was at Glasgow Climbing Centre (my main wall). I was pretty psyched and confident for this comp with it being at my usually wall but still extremely nervous at the same time.

I arrived early and began to route map our boulders and routes. They all looked pretty good and our last climb (Robbie's red) looked especially interesting with technical parts and big moves. The boulders look ok except from our last one which looked quite technical and had some big moves in it.

After route-mapping we had a group warm up and began with our boulders. We started off with our most straight forward boulder which was blue tagged holds. It was a juggy problem which everyone breezed up with no problems. It was probably V0/V1? We then moved onto our hardest boulder because the area around our second boulder was filled with other people. I was a bit worried about having to do our hardest boulder so early on but after some careful thought about it and some wise words of Robbie I was good to go. I was near the end in placings so I got to have a good look at different people's styles at trying to climb it. I got past the first bit quite easily as it was mostly on jugs (although a slight misjudgement of my hand placement nearly had me going the wrong way.) This made me realise I really had to think about the route more before starting and not just rushing onto it. Once past the easy part at the start it came into a side edge then down onto a crimp. I managed this ok, then it was out to the edge of a volume. I grabbed the volume and held it which meant i got the points but when trying to match it my hands slipped off. This didn't bother me too much though because I knew I still had another two shots to go. I watched Jamie breeze it shortly after it. Beast! My second go resulted in the same way because matching on it this time my hand was on the tape so it slipped off it. On my final go I got to the same place and felt my hand slipping so I lunged my hand forward so I would get extra points. I wasn't really too bothered by this because we still had all the climbs and another boulder to go. Probably V3/V4?

Our mid-graded boulder was a tan in a corner which needed reach and careful foot placement. I watched a few poeple go before me and worked out a sequence in my head. Abi crushed it without any hesitation! Taostaah! When it was my turn to go I found out that the moves weren't as hard as I thought they would be and managed, because I was slightly taller than others, to reach to the last hold without having to get my legs in any awkward, stretchy position. For taller people I think it was probably V2?

We stopped for lunch then went straight onto out easiest route. This was a white juggy climb on the wall that moves to the side at GCC. I watched Robbie demo it and when it was my turn to go I tried to get as psyched as I could and started. I wasn't very confident at first making fumbly movements with both my hands and my feet but as I moved up in the climb I got more confident. I managed to top this. When I came down Robbie went over with me that I was still being very static in my moves on the climbs and that I should relax and loosen up a bit, be more dynamic. I took this in and tried to relax for the next climb.

The next route was a red problem up one of the easier lead walls in GCC. It wasn't too bad, with only a few technical parts in it but after closely watching Robbie demo it I managed to wrok out a sequence which worked well and got me to the top.

I had gone 4th in the second route which meant I was going to be 2nd in the final route. When it was time for the final route we all sat down to watch it being demoed. I was pretty shaky think about where I could go wrong and whether I could reach some of the holds but I knew I had to get this out of my head so I sat down and just thought about getting to the top. Robbie made it look easy (beast!) After watching the person on front of me it was my turn to go. I walked up still full of nerves facing up to the route. I tied my shoes, chalked up and tied in. I shook of my hands trying to stop them from shaking and began the route. The first part up until the over hand wasn't too bad with some juggy and pinchy holds. Then it was onto the overhang, the first part that looked hard, with a massive move in it. I got onto the middle of it and shook off before the big move and just went for it. I got my finger tips on then bumped my whole hand up onto it. It was a massive jug so I managed to hold it. I moved up onto what was another jug and clipped. I was pretty reliaved to get past this part but I still had 4 more clips, and another big move to go. The moves up to the next clips were on quite small holds and required a SAAHH! Then it was onto a good hold and then a big move up to a side ways jug. I got into position for the big move and hearing everyone shout my name I jumped for it. I got it with my fingertips and my feet came loose. I thought I was coming off but slamming my feet back on the wall and a SAAHHH I managed to get my hand right into the jug and clip. Then it was 3 more decent holds and I topped it. It felt amazing and I was pleased I had managed to top all the routes even if it was with some power screams!

I watched the other try the route and there were some pretty awesome attempts, Jamie was so close to the end just missing out on the holds near the end and Euan managed to leap for the jug on the overhang and hold it which was a pretty amazing sight. Well in mate!

After everyone had climbed I was the only person to top the climb, I was pleased with this and it has really brought my confidence up for future competitions. Overall with the points from the route I came 1st! I was so pleased that I had managed this, and at my home wall! haha.

Well done to Jamie for coming second, Abi for coming third and everyone else at the competition. Also thanks to Robbie for the awesome support (and demoing) at the comp!

Next, Dundee :)