Sunday 18 April 2010

First Week of Plan Complete

So I have just come to the end of my first week of my 25 week training program that was given to me by Robbie. (Apart from c.v work which I will do later today) It has been a really good week of training and even although it has only been a week I think I have learnt more about training in this week than I have in the past month.

I started off on Monday at Glasgow Climbing Centre doing 4x5's. I had been shown basically how to do these in a session with Robbie a couple of weeks before but that had been at Ratho so this night I had to see what climbs at Glasgow suited the 2/3 level of pump needed. My first set was 6c,6b,6b,6b+,6a. This went well and i managed to keep to 2/3 pump without it being too easy. My next set was 6c,6b,6b+,6b,6a. Although this looks similar to my first set, more of the climbs, including the 6c, were done on the main, pumpier wall at Glasgow which meant this set was too hard and I hit level 4 pump by the end. I know this shouldn't have happened but it was good to learn my limits in 4x4's and what I can and can't do to stay at 2/3 pump. My next two sets were about the same pump as the first one which meant I had learnt my lesson about not doing too many on the main wall. They were 6b,6b,6b,6b,6b and 6b,6b,6b,6a+,6b. I finished off the session with 30 minutes of regeneration climbing and after this I really felt like even in this one session I had achieved something.

On Wednesday I was back at GCC doing my bouldering session. I started off with some easy boulders to warm up then headed up to the Training room where I was to make 25 move minimum problems on the 45 degree board. I really struggled with this, I don't know whether it's just that I wasn't creative enough with the moves or what but I just could seem to make 25 moves that I was capable of doing. I will need to have a chat with Robbie about this and see what I can do. After trying this I headed back down, quite frustrated about not managing to make good problems and finished with regeneration climbing.

On Thursday, unable to get a rest day because I couldn't do routes on Friday, I went for my hard route and 3 second locks session at GCC. I started off by warming up on boulders and a couple of easy routes 6a-6b. I then moved on to the hard routes. I started off with the Tan 7b on the main lead wall. I checked out all the moves then tried it. I found it really reachy and pretty pumpy so I only made it to the 4th or 5th clip. The next climb I tried was the Yellow 7b on the DR lead wall. I found this really really hard because the moves were massive and only made it to the crux at the 3rd clip which is a move over a whole panel. I then moved onto the Green 7a on the main lead wall which I flashed with no problems, this made me feel a bit better after not getting up the other two. I then done the Green 6c+ on the DR wall and my heal popped off clipping the first clip so technically it wasn't a flash but I done the rest of it without stopping. I then did it again so I could do it without my heel popping this time. I then moved onto 3 second locks which were the 6b black on the DR lead wall, the 6a White on the Main lead wall and the 6b black on the Main lead wall. I didn't find these too hard so I think I will have to maybe put the grade up a bit. I then finished with regeneration climbing.

My last session, 4x4's, was done on Saturday at Ratho with Rachel. I started off with 6b+,6b+,6b,6a+ and found this about right. I then belayed while having a rest and moved onto my next set which was 6b+,6b+,6a+,6a+ and that was fine again. My third set was a bit easier grade wise 6b,6b,6b,6a but still gave the right amount of pump. I finished off doing my last set on the speed wall mainly because we were running out of time. This didn't really give me the right pump but was really tiring. This was another tiring but productive session and I finished it with 20 minutes regeneration climbing.

During the week I tried my core exercises. I had given them a shot in the Ratho gym with Robbie and let's just say it didn't go too well. I was fine with the crunches but I basically fell everytime trying the Russian Twists and Med Ball Leg raises. This time, at home, I was determined to at least finish the sets. I gave them a few practises and managed to do them, if not very shakily. I then started the sets, starting off very shaky then gradually getting better. By the end of the three sets I wasn't actually bad at the, still a bit shaky but I think over time I should get used to it.

Now I just need to do my 45 minute c.v work and that will be me finished completely. This has probably been the hardest I've worked in climbing in a week because it has been structured. I am now looking forward to progressing through the rest of the plan...

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